Shaving with the grain, across the grain and against the grain is the key to a smoother, closer shave with less irritation. This guide explains each pass, how to map your beard growth, and how to use the proper sequence for the best results.
Why Pass Sequence Matters
Most shaving irritation comes from shaving in the wrong direction. Your beard doesn’t grow in one straight line — it grows in different directions across your face, neck and jawline.
Using the correct pass sequence:
- reduces razor burn
- prevents ingrown hairs
- improves closeness
- reduces tugging
- gives a smoother finish
The three shaving passes are:
- With the grain (WTG)
- Across the grain (XTG)
- Against the grain (ATG)
Each one has a purpose and when used correctly, they give you the best possible shave.
Step 1: Map Your Beard Growth
Before you can shave in the right direction, you need to know which way your beard grows.
Run your fingers across your stubble:
- Smooth direction = with the grain
- Rough direction = against the grain
Most men have:
- downward growth on the cheeks
- outward growth on the jawline
- upward growth on the neck
- circular or diagonal growth under the chin
Take 30 seconds to map it — it makes a huge difference.
Step 2: First Pass — Shave With the Grain (WTG)
This is the foundation of a good shave.
Shaving with the grain:
- removes the bulk of the hair
- reduces tugging
- minimises irritation
- prepares the skin for closer passes
Use:
- light pressure
- short strokes
- a sharp blade
This pass should feel smooth and comfortable. If you’re using cartridges, the cartridge razor technique guide shows how to combine pass direction with proper pressure.
Step 3: Re‑Lather Before the Next Pass
Never shave over bare skin.
Re‑apply shaving cream or lather to:
- protect the skin
- hydrate the beard
- reduce friction
A fresh layer of lather is essential for the next pass.
Step 4: Second Pass — Shave Across the Grain (XTG)
This pass gives you most of your closeness.
Across the grain means shaving perpendicular to the direction of growth.
Examples:
- If your beard grows down → shave sideways
- If your beard grows sideways → shave up or down
Benefits:
- closer shave without irritation
- less risk of ingrown hairs
- ideal for sensitive skin
For many men, WTG + XTG is close enough.
Step 5: Third Pass — Shave Against the Grain (ATG)
This is the closest pass — but also the most aggressive.
Shaving against the grain:
- gives the smoothest finish
- removes the shortest stubble
- can cause irritation if done incorrectly
Only use ATG if:
- your skin can tolerate it
- your beard is fully softened
- your blade is sharp
- you’ve already done WTG + XTG
If you have sensitive skin or curly hair, you may want to skip ATG entirely.
Step 6: Use Light Pressure on Every Pass
More pressure does not mean a closer shave.
Light pressure:
- protects the skin
- prevents razor burn
- reduces nicks and cuts
- improves glide
Let the razor do the work. Reducing resistance helps each pass feel smoother, and the tugging and pulling guide explains how to fix drag.
Step 7: Rinse the Blade Often
A clogged blade causes:
- tugging
- scraping
- uneven cutting
Rinse after every few strokes to keep the blade clean and effective.
Step 8: Finish With Cool Water
Cool water:
- calms the skin
- reduces redness
- closes pores
It’s the perfect transition into your post‑shave routine.
Who Should Avoid Shaving Against the Grain?
Against the grain is not ideal for:
- sensitive skin
- curly or coarse hair
- men prone to ingrown hairs
- acne‑prone skin
- anyone who gets razor burn easily
If this is you, stick to with the grain and across the grain for a comfortable shave. If your shave looks uneven, the patchy shaving guide helps you get a more consistent finish.
Quick Pass Sequence Summary
- Pass 1: With the grain — remove bulk
- Pass 2: Across the grain — improve closeness
- Pass 3: Against the grain — optional, ultra‑close finish
This is the classic barbershop method for a smooth, irritation‑free shave.
Final Takeaway
Shaving with the grain, across the grain and against the grain is the key to a comfortable, close shave. Map your beard growth, use the correct sequence, and only go against the grain if your skin can handle it.
Master the pass sequence and your shave will instantly improve.